Taking surf sides: Stand-up paddle surfers, like this one in Malibu, Calif., use a large board and a paddle to catch waves more easily than traditional surfers. (Charles More)
Battle of the boards erupts over paddle surfing
Stand-up paddle surfers use larger boards and paddles to catch waves, but traditional surfers resent the intrusion of the often-novice boarders in their waters.
By Evan Pondel | Correspondent / September 23, 2008 edition
Los Angeles
It’s been nearly 30 minutes since the last rideable wave rolled through first point at Malibu, and about three dozen surfers are cold and downright cranky. “Would someone please deposit a token to start the wave machine,” grouses one surfer.
A few chuckles and pseudo dolphin cries later, a wave forms in the distance and a mass migration of surfers begins jockeying for position.
“It’s mine, it’s mine,” a longboarder shouts as he maneuvers his 10-foot projectile in front of the oncoming wall of water. He is sandwiched between 15 other surfers, all of whom are charging the same wave with ravenous eyes and visions of 10-toe glory.
And then there’s Tom Tilberg, already standing on his board and gracefully sweeping the water with a paddle like a gondolier. Two quick strokes and he’s the first one in the wave, enjoying a 50-yard ride that ends with a frothy finish.
“It’s just too easy to get into waves on this thing,” says Mr. Tilberg, riding his stand-up paddle board. “Sometimes you get dirty looks.”
Wave envy – or perhaps animosity – runs deep in southern California as more people jockey to ride the same crowded breaks. Now a new form of surfing is gaining popularity that is adding to the congestion off coastlines around the country.
Called stand up paddle surfing, or SUP for short, it involves using a big surfboard that is stable enough to stand on when in flat water. Then, wielding a paddle or “blade” for propulsion, SUP riders canoe up to catch a wave.
The technique makes it far easier to paddle into everything from a snapper to a hollowed-out A-frame and has opened the exclusive world of surfing to more novices.
Which is where the problem begins. Many traditional surfers, a cliquish group to begin with, resent these table-top-size boards invading their aquatic turf.
They sniff that SUP is like riding a bike with training wheels. Like skiing with a helmet. Like hitting a baseball off a tee.
Or, as veteran Malibu surfer Eric Walker, puts it: “It’s like watching a Mack Truck come down the line versus a Toyota Echo.”
But the purists may want to get used to their paddling cousins. Like snowboarding, SUP doesn’t look like it will vanish with the next swell. “It’s not a fad – it’s already sticking,” says Matt Warshaw, author of “The Encyclopedia of Surfing.”
•••
On average, waves at Malibu’s first point, arguably among the best on the West Coast, provide rides that range from 5 to 10 seconds. When you consider that several dozen surfers usually vie for each swell, you can begin to understand the arithmetic behind the animosity.
Moreover, just having someone slashing around in the surf with a paddle, and already in the standing position before a wave even breaks, further irritates traditional boarders, who spend most of their time laying idle on their bellies.
Surf shops up and down southern California’s coast are selling stand-up boards and offering lessons. The problem is that SUP riders with little or no surfing experience don’t understand the etiquette of the water.
“SUPs will pull into a wave with their paddles right in front of you, and you’re like, ‘really, did that just happen?’ ” Mr. Walker says. “Too bad there isn’t a bike lane for stand up surfers.”
Yet not all SUP riders are new to the sport. In fact, the roots of stand-up surfing reach back more than 100 years ago, when wave riders in Hawaii were using paddles and wood planks for transportation. Some surfers even believe that today’s version of stand-up surfing echoes the practices of the ancient Polynesians.
“SUP is a throwback to what true watermen all aspired to do, and once you try it, you’re instantly hooked,” says Scott Bass, a San Diego surf talk radio host. “But it’s also a curse.”
Mr. Bass, who prefers stand-up surfing when the waves aren’t big enough for shortboarding, says SUP is like having too much of a good thing.
“People see stand-up riders catching waves and suddenly they’re everyone’s enemy,” he says. “There are some beaches where there’s such a negative vibe that stand-up surfers don’t even step foot in the water.”
On a recent weekend afternoon at Topanga State Beach in Los Angeles County, nearly 40 surfers bobbed offshore without a single SUP. The crowd at Malibu was similar, as Sunny Chang, an outdoor instructor for the store REI, was just finishing up her session.
Ms. Chang says contrary to what traditional surfers think, she believes SUP riders are always welcome.
“It’s just a slightly different way of surfing,” says Chang, her 9-foot, 2-inch longboard tucked under her arm. “Everyone is entitled to surf.”
But Jefferson Wagner, a Malibu city councilman, disagrees. “Stand-up paddle boarders should be banned from the surf zone,” says Mr. Wagner, who owns Zuma Jay, a surf shop that is a Malibu icon. “SUPs are too large and bulky for a person to control around other people.”
Most SUPs are nine to 10 feet long, not much different than longboards. But they are at least an inch and a half thicker and wider than traditional boards. And many SUP riders don’t wear leashes to keep their boards from tumbling toward surfers and swimmers closer to shore.
“I can just see some unsuspecting family visiting from the East Coast getting slammed by one of these boards set loose in the water,” Wagner says.
Kayaks are already banned at Malibu’s Surfrider Beach, so Wagner doesn’t think it’s unreasonable to banish SUPs as well. Of course, the cost of stand-up surfboards could end up being more of an impediment than any government restrictions or gnarly vibes in the water. Most SUPs, often carbon-wrapped, run anywhere from $1,000 to $2,000, and that usually doesn’t include the $250 paddle.
Freddie Morales, a longboarder, says he has no problem with SUPs “in the lineup” as long as stand-up riders and traditional surfers respect each other.
“There used to be a rivalry among longboarders and shortboarders, but that has basically dissipated,” says Mr. Morales, who works at Masi Custom Surfboards in San Diego. “I suspect the same will eventually happen between SUP and traditional surfers.”
•••
Some resistance to SUP clearly remains more philosophical than pragmatic. Many purists believe using a paddle and a lumbering board is like surfing with a pontoon boat.
They prefer the purity of using arms and legs to propel themselves into a wave and then relying on their own dexterity and balance and feel to negotiate the water – in other words, “true” surfing.
“I have no interest in trying SUP,” says Chris Dewind, a devoted shortboarder and college student from Malibu. “You see these SUP riders sitting way outside or on the shoulder [of a point break], and they just don’t care about the other surfers.”
Mr. Dewind admits that it is more difficult to catch a wave on a shortboard than a SUP, but “I still think they should go find their own peaks – away from traditional surfers.”
Still, not everyone believes there needs to be segregated surf zones. Greg Bonann, a Los Angeles County lifeguard and creator of the TV series “Baywatch,” draws a comparison between SUVs and smaller cars.
“One is bigger, and you don’t want to get hit by it, but there is no reason that you can’t share the road together,” Mr. Bonann says. Then he offers a piece of pure laid-back L.A. advice to SUPs: “Surf politely, enjoy one another, and enjoy the waves.”
2. Tai | 09.23.08
As long as whomever’s doing the SUP know what they’re doing (i.e. not some idiot who saw the sport on E! and ends up destroying everyone & everything in their path, like many new longboarders do…) then Im cool with it. I grew up in Aiea and when I was a kid my uncle used to take us SUPing at Kailua beach park in the 80s, and now I live in L.A. & I think the majority of surfers here have to battle for what little scraps come through on small days - thats where I think the anger comes from. Once the surf hits 6 feet, you see a nice thinning out of the crowd & I’ve never seen a SUP in surf over 6 feet out here… Malama Pono.
3. Jarrett Rose | 09.23.08
All those damn chimney sweeps should really focus on getting out of that water peacefully before something bad happens. Do we really have to start this type of battle folks?
4. L. Hamilton | 09.23.08
I can’t believe they didn’t blame someone for starting this craze. Stop the madness. Send the gondolas back to Venice.
5. Patrick Burke | 09.23.08
Some of the SUP riders in the Ventura area have been surfing for decades and are not only skillful, but respectful. I think respect means considering others and not hogging all the waves just because you can. If the SUP people would practice the Golden Rule, there would be a lot less tension. The kooks, that’s another story. They are dangerous no matter what they are trying to ride.
6. Mike | 09.23.08
Surfers need to chill out… seriously.
If they successfully ban SUPs, then I propose that surfing be officially regulated and licensed.
No surfing without a license and no surfing under the influence of narcotics.
SUP enthusiasts are 1000 times preferable to surfers with bad attitudes… more money for local merchants, fewer punks, less vandalism.
Mr. Jefferson Wagner needs to choose more wisely who he is serving.
7. JoC@ | 09.23.08
As long as the people that SUP know what their doing I have no problem with them. I myself SUP from time to time and when the sets roll in, I give everybody in the line up a heads up. Never have I gotten ridiculed for SUP maybe it’s because I know what I’m doing or maybe because I’m a pretty big Hawaiian guy that embraces my heritage to the fullest. all in all surfers, SUP’s, Bodyboarders, Kneeboarders, bodysurfers, etc……. Should learn how to surf in harmony and stop hating on eachother!!!!
Mahaloz,
&
Alohaz
8. Chris | 09.23.08
I see them around in the SF Bay Area but they haven’t been too much of a problem. I did see a couple of them in Pacifica looking a little out of control, but on the other had I have see some at Ocean Beach just cruising up and down and finding their own peaks on smaller, smoother days.
9. B.Fife | 09.24.08
Let’s set the record straight. There are way more novices in the water riding longboards than there are SUP riders. You just notice the SUP’s because they “stand” out in the line up. I’ve been surfing for 30 years and was introduced to SUP’ing from my friends in Makaha. Most of those guys can carve with a SUP better than the average California shortboarder. People are just plain afraid of anything new. Half the longboarders at Malibu’s 1st point have boards longer than my SUP. If I’m in the strike zone and I take off first what’s the difference? They all drop in on each other anyway. And as for Mr. Wagner, he’s a kook who can’t surf and never could. He’s the one who should be banned from the water. He’s just pandering to his surf shop customers.
10. jeff | 09.24.08
Surfing is kinda weird that way. I mean the best surfers in the world ride shortboards in all contested conditions. But guys who surfed for years are usually overweight. So they ride bigger boards generally. The kids don’t respect them because they have to share a limited amount of waves with this army of longboarders who can catch the waves further out in the lineup thus giving them priority. And now, here comes the surfing industry with SUP’s. The result? Too much lumber and big bellies in the water. So if that means getting in better shape so I can ride a shorter board and surf better then I’m all for it.
11. Jarrod | 09.24.08
I think that SUPs are especially good for surfing outside cloudbreaks like the ones we have in North OC. They can paddle pretty fast and handle some size. I noticed several guys doing this last winter with some pretty good results and plan to try it myself when I can afford one of the damn things.
12. Mack | 09.24.08
Everyone should follow the same surfing rules for safety as well as access. But Short boarders are claiming something that belongs to everyone and should be open to everyone. If you feel that you need your own waves, go buy up beachfront property and exclude people. But don’t think you can exclude someone simply because you don’t like what they are doing. Who says anyone owns the waves?
13. Stoneaxe | 09.24.08
I started doing standup a year ago as therapy for balance problems caused by a brain tumor…amazing results. I’ve also lost 50 lbs and am in the best shape I’ve seen in 20 years. Its the best workout I’ve ever done. Along the way I made sure I learned the rules of the lineup and even then stayed way outside until I had the skills to control the board.
Every person I’ve met doing the sport is respectful to a fault, in fact most go out of their way to avoid confrontation because of all the backlash caused by the writers in the surf mags and the fools that listen to them. Then you have the self serving people like Mr. Wagner making ridiculous statements like many don’t wear leashes…I’ve seen 1 not wear a leash out of 100’s and he was so skilled I didn’t even question it.
I’m on the east coast so its a much different vibe. Not as crowded, easier to share, plenty of waves to go around. I had to laugh about the comment regarding the east coast family though. We just a had a beach closed to all surfing because some shortboarders threatened some tourists. Yelled at them and their kids…told them to get off “Their beach”. I guess Wagner would argue that beaches should be closed to families with kids too.
For the most part I think its a vocal minority that does the griping. The ones that show little respect for anything and want to show how tough they are to each other.
14. Jonathan | 09.24.08
Apparently, Mark Sausen is as new to internet as a lot of SUP’ers are to surfing. NO NEED TO YELL, DUDE!!!
15. zatch | 09.24.08
it’s always struck me as kinda weird how surfers are all mellow and chill, yet also self-righteous cry-babies. You didn’t invent the sport and you don’t own the ocean, so step.
16. eddie | 09.24.08
in Hawaii it’s a way different story. Just do many good waves to go around for all. These fat old kooks weekend warrioring here in California need to learn some respect if they want to enjoy the ocean with the rest of us. SUPs should come with how to not be a kook manual.
17. BoBandy | 09.24.08
Its hilarious how quick people are to pigeon hole them self into one thing and despise those who don’t. So how do you think longboarders felt when the short-board phenomenon took off and they had all these out-of-control surfers on their calm, quiet waves. And what makes the fad you jumped on better than the rest anyway….?
Skies Vs Snowboard debate all over again, except WAY more petty because lets face it…..nobody owns the ocean and people should be free to enjoy it how they please. Talking like your the boss of surfing and how there is no more room in the sport for anyone else is ridiculous. Elitism has no place in surfing…yet it plagues every break because locals seem to feel some sort of selfish ownership. How Maholo of you all. Malibu is apparently a mecca of this NIMBY attitude….which makes sense because beach communities full of rich, decadent people need something to be outraged about. Pretty soon, skateboards and bicycles will have to fight for street supremacy.
19. Jesus | 09.24.08
1. learn how to surf everything and be a truly skilled waterman.
2. bring up your beef with SUP, LBs, or SBs out in the water. don’t whine on the internet like a coward
3. real surfers go out and find new breaks and keep them secret. don’t fight the crowd, avoid it.
20. thekamoi | 09.24.08
growing up on kauai surfing, you are blessed with beautiful weather, as well as world class waves.. the bad thing is that those things attract wanna bees that move here and think they are hawaiian or local that dont have surfing ettiquite..they drop in on you, and then you have to snap out because you almost got your head taken off, all because these kooks are trying to surf a local,advanced breaks..now with the kooks are on stand up boards ,because they can catch more waves,….all i have to say is know your limits, make your wave, and hold on to your paddle..so for all those people selling these sups it is your responsibility to educate them on surfing ettiquite, than just simply taking the cash…. no sell out bra…
23. okinawaSUP | 09.26.08
I am new to surfing but I used to be a body boarder. I have been watching the sport of SUP grow over the last year and finally picked one up. I have been having a blast. I try and stay out of everyones way and only go to breaks without of surfers or at lest very few.
One thing I have noticed, however, I can sit in a line-up for hours taking waves and never get in anyones way. The people getting in everyones way are the other surfers. So why start bashing SUPs? Because we are different. There is also a bit of envy, I feel as I can ride waves from 10+ down to ankle high so I get more waves.
Regular surfers need to get over themselves. No one owns the ocean, it is for everyone.
To make matters worse I also kitesurf in waves so I get a double dose of hate from the surf community.
24. Doug | 09.29.08
Get off here and quit feeding this negativity. Grab your board (or SUP) and get out there and enjoy God’s beautiful ocean!
I surf and SUP and have to say, I make more friends with my SUP. Mostly because the majority of the surfers are curious and have been considering trying it. In fact, many jump on mine and quickly realize how difficult it can be.
I have to say, most of the complainers are the same angry little men that complain when I am on my longboard as well. They are going to complain no matter what.
That being said…beginner SUP riders should learn the surf etiquette and stay clear until they are skilled enough to control themselves and their board.
25. M.Shelton | 10.12.08
The line-ups across the world continue to gain more participants and each surf break has its own unique set of given circumstances that need to be respected in order to enjoy the water safely and collectively.
Everything is good until it is not and what makes it not good is selfishness, poor decision making, and arrogance. Every line up has an order that was established over time and this order mutates in relation to the tolerance of the consistent local participants.
Always try to respect the standing order in the line up, and if one wants to be a maverick, than one needs to consider the consequences of their actions in relation to other people and choose wisely.
The post modern apocalyptic entitlement class that assumes; “because I can then I have the right”, are obviously narcissistic. Nine times out of ten I will trust the locals and if my own local peers are accepting of my new way of water enjoyment than I have succesfully begun the new mutation at my local spot. Good luck and lets go green on all of our equipment.
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1. Ckaj Noslo | 09.23.08
SUPing has it’s place but NOT in the CONGESTED surf spots like Malibu. Just like in boating, there are specific RIGHT-OF-WAY rules that must be respected for safety reasons. SUPing is typically reckless. There are exceptions, like the guy I saw dropping in deep on a 25 foot face at Hanalei Bay way before the paddle guys even began to paddle for it. After witnessing that, I feel that SUPing is the future of big waves surfing. I’d much rather see people SUPing than TOWing. Just don’t paddle on out to the HB Pier.