Going with the flow: The river of motorbikes flows through the streets of Ho Chi Minh City. (Patti McCracken)
Vietnam eats, sleeps, and dreams on motorbikes
Evidence of “moto” madness: A family of four on a speeding cycle sharing a bucket of fried chicken as they go.
By Patti McCracken | Contributor / October 1, 2008 edition
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Contributor Patti McCracken shows the raging river of motorbikes she has to ford to cross a street in Ho Chi Minh City.
Far from the madding ‘motos’: A cyclist, sound asleep on his ride, takes a break.
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
I stood just outside the storefront, leaning against the door frame waiting for a delivery. On the fractured sidewalk in front of me, a man napped on the seat of his motorbike, his arms folded across his chest, his legs draped over the handlebars. Settled into his daytime slumber, he was cocooned from the mad cacophony of the street, where masses of motorbikes tipping with payload, sped about in all directions, dismissive of signs, signals, or even an iota of order.
Looking at him, so unaffected he could nap amid the free-for-all, I was once again stunned by the fantastic bedlam of Vietnam’s “moto” culture; a bedlam that is simply white noise to locals.
I watched as several motorbikes bumped up onto the sidewalk, nimbly dodging the droves of pedestrians and turning this city sidewalk into a traffic feeder lane. Out of the stream emerged a “moto” driver laden with boxes of computer equipment, who wove his way around the napper and the other sidewalk sideshows. He appeared to be driving toward the doorway I was standing in. I was curious, wondering when this driver would stop, or if he would stop. I quickly sidestepped to make room for him as he eased the bike over the threshold, only arriving at a full stop once inside the store. For a foreigner, this was breathtaking. For the Vietnamese, it was a plain-vanilla-ordinary thing to do.
To the Vietnamese, a motorbike is not just a vehicle, but a bionic limb. A magic carpet. A personal jet pack, able to propel them from their living rooms (where many park their bikes) to any doorstep. Legs and feet are backup forms of transport, used only as a last resort.
And packs of motos swarm through the streets and onto the sidewalks, weaving and honking, dodging and turning, often hulking with the likes of plate glass, doors, household appliances, and even amusement park props in tow.
The number of motorbikes continues to rise in Vietnam and there are now nearly 20 million of them, according to the World Bank. Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) has 3 million – about one motorbike for every two people in the city. By far, the largest portion of vehicles on the roads of Vietnam are “motos,” which are small engine – 50cc to 400cc – motorcycles.
• • •
I had my first extended stay in Vietnam more than three years ago. Day after day, I’d watch – through taxi windows – the dizzying theater of street traffic. From my backseat perch, I’d jot notes to myself about the two- and three-wheeled vehicles minnowing around me, heaving with cargo – coconut-laden rickshaws; old bicycles bulging with baskets of raw meat; cyclo drivers pedaling oversized spools of cable wiring; and motorbike after motorbike weighted down with six-foot bookcases, stereos, refrigerators, extension ladders, TVs, bushels of skinned chickens, plastic barrels of live fish, and rings of rubber tires.
These superheroes of delivery would transport items the size of small buildings on nothing bigger than a Vespa. Cars can barely crawl along the clogged city streets, but the river of motos and makeshift vehicles flow speedily around them. From my view inside the taxi, I felt like an onlooker who’d been plopped down into the middle of a parade.
A US State Department warning reads like an all points bulletin, cautioning Americans against murderous motorcycles on the loose: “The traffic moves on the right, although drivers often travel against the flow. Horns are used constantly, often for no apparent reason. Outside the cities, livestock compete with vehicles for road space. Drivers do not follow basic traffic principles and there is little adherence to traffic laws … most Vietnamese ride motorcycles; often an entire family rides on one motorcycle.”
Near the end of those first weeks in Vietnam, my interpreter, Mr. Thien, convinced me it would be OK to catch a ride with him on his moto.
“It’s raining. And it’s only two streets,” he said. “Don’t worry, I drive slowly.”
I climbed on and gripped his shoulders. Before Thien had driven half a yard, we were front-ended by a moto making a turn into oncoming traffic. It was nothing more than a kiss of wheels, and both drivers nodded respectfully at each other before the second driver sped off, soldiering into the surge of oncoming vehicles.
“It’s OK, it’s OK,” said Thien, trying to reassure me. My grip tightened considerably.
Although the cities rack up a considerable number of collisions, the country’s highways are even worse. (Eighty percent of the world’s traffic accidents take place in Southeast Asia, according to the World Health Organization.)
Yet, the Vietnamese seem unfazed. Their madness for motos remains, along with their kamikaze abandonment of road rules and safety. Late last year, a law mandating the use of helmets went into effect. Before then, seeing a helmet here was like spotting an alligator in the Arctic. And although citizens comply with the law, there remains an aversion to wearing helmets. Which is why they’re mockingly called rice cookers.
• • •
Since that first visit to Vietnam, I’ve returned several times. In June, I walked out of my hotel one afternoon to find an Australian guest sitting on the steps, staring out at the street.
“Interesting, huh?” I said, recognizing his traffic reverie.
“Unbelievable. Unbelievable,” he said. “I had plans to go out tonight, but, I’m not going anywhere. I’ve been sitting here for more than an hour and I just can’t take my eyes off it.”
I scuttled on past the dumbstruck Australian and handily flagged down a moto taxi driver. He revved his engine, popped up onto the sidewalk and braked at my shoes. His toe-front service meant he was extending his superpowers to me, ensuring I wouldn’t have to take one single extra unnecessary step. I got on, strapped my “rice cooker” across my chin and we were off.
I don’t know where it came from, this willingness to lob myself into the frenzied fray. But it happened on my second trip to Vietnam, when a late-night ride home was offered by a fellow journalist. It seemed rude to say no. And too touristic and foreign and fearful to call for a cab, yet again. And the chorus of locals egging me on sealed the deal. “Don’t be scared! We take care of you!” they shouted.
And soon I felt relieved to be free of the cluttered sidewalks where eating, card-playing, boozing, dealmaking, daydreaming, schmoozing, repairing, canoodling, sleeping, hair-cutting, and gossiping take place.
On foot I felt like a trespasser in a supremely crowded living room. On wheels, I began to loosen my grip. My posture softened. No longer bracing against the current, my spot on the back of the moto felt like the eye of the storm. I began to take motos whenever possible. I crisscrossed the city on moto taxis, just one more piece of cargo being ferried through town. This was it for me. I was joined with the masses. Me as we.
Zipping along, I watched as fellow motorbikers clipped past me. I began to note with pad and pen, there on the back of the bike, what I saw in motion: a family of four on a moto passing around a bucket of fried chicken, a stack of funeral wreaths being hauled, a driver with a huge bucket of live shrimp sandwiched between his legs.
I shot video while my driver u-turned into oncoming traffic on a bridge, then rewound to look at the footage, while other motos whizzed so close I had to squeeze in my knees.
Looking back, I’m alarmed at the danger I put myself in. Being bionic by proxy involves more than a little risk.
Now, propped on a mantel in my office half a world away, is my helmet. Every now and then I take it down and try it on, showing it off to friends and telling them stories of the road. Me and my superhero costume, nestled safely at home.
2. bill | 10.01.08
You should check out Bikes of Burden a book of pictures taken in Saigon of nothing but bikes and their loads. I bought my copy in Saigon a few years ago and have introduced many others to this book. It is now available in the US through Aerostich.com ( a motorcycle accessory supply business, no less)and maybe others.
Try it you will like it. It has been enjoyed by everyone who has seen my copy.
bill.
3. John | 10.01.08
Thanks for the good laugh, I’m here in the Philippines observing the same “circus of traffic” here. Being the adventurous sort, I plunged headlong into riding the “trike cabs,” a motorized version of the pedicabs. (Three-wheelers)
My biggest problem was fitting into the darn thing, and I’m not a big guy, (5′9″ 180lbs) and I’ve seen them with 8-10 people hanging on to ANY STEP, PLATFORM, AND FLAT SURFACE!! But with the tiny motors, the speeds are minimal, but the danger is due to the total lack of road awareness!! If the driver THINKS that he can get the front wheel between himself and the oncoming traffic, he’s off and away at about 5mph, trailing a cloud of smoke, and having not a care if the oncoming traffic is traveling at speeds much greater than his.
But as you mentioned, it gives one a great sense of pride, knowing that you can manage in a world where traffic is “Everyone for themselves,” and you escape with the same feeling you used to get when riding on a rollercoaster, only THIS rollercoaster is your main mode of transport!!
4. Anthony N. | 10.01.08
Hello Patti M. hope you had a great time in VN. I was there in 2000 and 2004 and had a great time. I know what you mean about the madness on the streets in Saigon every night when my friends and i was out on the town we would see someone dying on the street because of an accident. But still my friends and I still ended up riding the mopeds by ourselves, we would do it at night or cruise out to the countryside or to Vung Tau. Next time you are back in VN. you might want to try riding it yourself but only do it late at night when there are no traffic or do it in the countryside. Anyway glad to hear that you are back safe and sound and hope to hear about your next adventure.
Anthony N.
5. John | 10.01.08
Enjoyed this article immensely. I, too spent a short time in Saigon.It was in the end of January 1968, the eve of Tet, that I arrived at Thon Son Nhut AB/airport. I was a member of the USAF, sent to be an load master for C130 aircraft. Even then the amount of, what we referred to as Scooters, was not to be believed. When the article talks about using the sidewalks, it reminded me of the many items I saw personal items lifted from some unsuspecting pedestrian by the rear seated passenger. Moving at a high rate of speed they were nimble enough to grab what they wanted and be on their way. At this time our access to Saigon was limited and never at night. Still,I was quite taken by these vehicles and finally after many years I own a de-restricted Lambretta, red in color with a 50cc engine. It will go very steadily at 45+mph/60+KPH and never drop below 30mph even on hills. While carrying my 210lbs, I’s impressive. No license, tags…yet. So after 40 years Vietnam creates another memory. I was told that Hanoi had even more scooters, bikes or motos, if you will, so that is even more mind boggling! Never considered taking a nap on mine, but I’ll think about it.
7. Frank | 10.01.08
what a great story!!!! you’re an amazing writer, I was sucked into your story, now I gotta go see this for myself!
8. Tom Breaux | 10.01.08
I too was a participant in Vietnam’s traffic subculture. All too true the lack of any traffic regulations other than survival seemed par for the streets. One of the more interesting rides I encountered was an airfoil boat commute from Ho Chi Minh City to VungTau. But the sense of adventure swells at just the thought of joining in the masses of motorbikes that seem to be on autopilot. Everyone I met there seemed willing to help and assure me everything would be ok. I guess it’s hard to hide guarded reluctance from your face . Would I do it again ? Hopefully yes , but with time to be consumed in the culture , feel the insanity and enjoy it.
9. Peter Farrell | 10.01.08
Patti,
I was really very amused by this moto craze article you wrote. I love your style and really wish I could find more great stories like this one.
Sincerely,
10. kal | 10.02.08
Lovely. brought back fond memories of the mayhem that is Hanoi on an autumn afternoon. many thanks for this piece.
11. Richard Kocher | 10.02.08
Though perhaps hyper in intensity, the Vietnamese’ use of “motos” is more the common Asian experience. They are practical, inexpensive, fun vehicles. Smallish cycles are disdained in the USA as “beginner” machines. We could save a lot of gas if we used them more. (a long time rider).
12. Mario Salazar | 10.02.08
Wow, this is the first time that I read an article that resembles the way I felt in Saigon while on a fake hospital visit. For shortness let me tell you that whenever we were at our base camp I would claim I was sick and take a plane ride to Saigon, where I would stay until it was time to go back to the field. I was able to know when because of my friend the company clerk. Besides, I would skip all the chicken s*** that we had while on the base camp.
On one of those trips I got drunk and remember being a passenger on a motorbike, going from cat house to cat house, sitting backwards through the back alleys of Cholon (off limits to all US service men).
14. Tina B. Tessina, PhD “Dr. Romance | 10.02.08
In 1998,as a tourist, I sat in a cafe on the main street of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) and watched the beautiful young women, in their gorgeous silk ao dais, long white gloves, and conical hats, motor by on their motor bikes. It was like a liquid rainbow. Your article brought back lovely memories. I would not want to have to drive in that traffic.
We’re talking about all things romance at the “Dr Romance” blog.
15. Ted Mac | 10.03.08
I was in VN in 66-67 and 70-71 was the same then everybody had a motor cycle or bike.
Ted
http://www.campingsierra.com
16. lizwebb | 10.03.08
Loved the article - was in Vietnam in 2005 - the most amazing sight was being
alerted to see 3 pigs (I think dead) strapped to a moto seen on our journey
with guide to Halong Bay.
Crazy!
17. Jerry W Doyle | 10.03.08
Excellent article Patti and very descriptive and accurate of the ubiquitous motorbikes. I hung out there in January 2008 and hired a motorbike driver for all the places that I wanted to go. It is so inexpensive to hire a driver and safer too, then the audacity of one renting a bike for him or herself and attempting to negotiate the streets of Saigon. It is just too dangerous to do because of the volume of motorbikes on the road (like swarming colonies of bees) to be driving a motorbike yourself and attempting to find your destination in a strange city. Hiring a motorbike driver is the fastest and easiest way to get around the city, and safe. I preferred older drivers because they seem to be more cautious and drive more slowly. You did not write, though, about the thick, dense smog and fuel fumes, that is exacerbated immensely while riding on the motorbikes because you are then in the very “thickness” of the smog, breathing it all. I suggest that tourists take with them smog masks or purchase one in the city before venturing out on the motorbikes. Most are two cycle engines spewing volumes of smoke, fuel and fumes.
Thanks for the article. It brought back fond memories of one of my favorite cities. I hope to return in the near future.
Jerry Doyle
Alexandria, Louisiana, USA
18. Tommy Kirchmeier | 10.06.08
I actually rented a moto while in Mui Ne, a beach resort town. While not nearly as congested as Saigon/Ho Chi Minh or Hanoi, it was quite an experience. I had been in the country for about two weeks at that point and the traffic patterns made sense to me. Trust me, once you get on a bike, everything falls into place and you understand how to move. Most of the time, you are simply keeping up with everyone else and moving with everyone else. What you miss when walking or in a taxi is that everyone is courteous as long as you are willing to have some give and take.
19. Paloma | 10.27.08
Lizzwebb: those pigs would have been alive, trust me, I’ve lived in Saigon for 2 years now. Have also seen a live calf on a moto; it’s transported on the back in a bamboo type basket, not unlike the ones they use for the pigs, only larger. I’ve seen this not just once, but on two separate occasions. Who needs a gas guzzling truck when you’ve got a trusty scooter!
Trackbacks/Pingbacks
1. Southeast Asia - SE Asian Stocks - Singapore, Malaysia, Thai stocks hit wk low (Yahoo! Asia News) : Global News Blog Headlines | 10.01.08
2. In Vietnam, a Moto is ‘a Bionic Limb, a Magic Carpet, a Personal Jet Pack’ | Travel Guides Net | 10.06.08
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1. rubin pham | 10.01.08
i have been to this place in december 2007.
it was a terrifying experience for me to drive in these traffic.
once i got out of saigon though, the traffic became better with less drivers and less pollution as well.